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Pomander

Marked by: Unmarked
English
about 1580
Object Place: Europe, England

Medium/Technique Gilded silver
Dimensions H. 6.4 cm (2 1/2 in); W. 3.4 cm (1 5/16 in.); Weight 50.2 gm (1 oz 11 dwt)
Credit Line Bequest of Frank Brewer Bemis
Accession Number35.1547
CollectionsEurope
ClassificationsSilver

Pomanders were popular in the medieval period and early modern Europe as objects of personal hygiene and self-care. This pomander, with its bulbous lower part, borrows its shape and name from an apple (pomme in French). When the tapered finial is unscrewed, the body opens, revealing eight compartments that fold down. Each is labeled with the name of a substance or plant appreciated for its scent, including rose, cedar, orange, and clove. When worn around the neck or suspended from a girdle hung around the waist, the pomander could be lifted to the nose and sniffed whenever the surrounding air smelled unpleasant. Many of the spices and other elements it contained were believed to have medicinal properties, bringing together the kitchen garden and apothecary in miniature form, to be carried when venturing out into the world.


DescriptionThe spherical pomander rests on a spool-shaped foot with a fluted upper and lower rim. An eight-sided central container is attached to the removable finial, which has eight facets and is surmounted by a grotesque figure. The body of the pomander is composed of eight wedge-shaped pieces, each hinged to the base on the lower edge. In the closed position, the upper edges of the wedges are held in place by the tightened finial; when opened, the sections fan out around the central post. Each section is engraved with the names of perfumes on the outer face with wriggle-work, and on the interior has an engraved sliding cover. The inscriptions read: ROSE; CEDRO; GESMINI; AMBRA; MOSCHETE; VIOLE; NARANSI; GAROFOLI. The underside of the base is engraved with a cartouche from which the armorials have been removed, surmounted by an archbishop's hat with tassels. Each wedge of the pomander is assembled from five flat pieces, with the top section left open to accommodate the sliding cover. The foot is composed of three formed pieces, and the central section is a faceted and seamed sheet. The finial is cast.
Marks Unmarked
InscriptionsEach section is engraved on the outer face with wriggle-work, and on the interior has an engraved sliding cover. The inscriptions, the names of perfumes, read: ROSE; CEDRO; GESMINI; AMBRA; MOSCHETE; VIOLE; NARANSI; GAROFOLI [rose, cedar, jasmine, ambergris, musk, violet, orange, clove]
ProvenanceBy 1919, Walter H. Willson Ltd., London; May 7, 1929, sold by Walter H. Willson, Ltd. to Frank Brewer Bemis (b. 1861 - d. 1935), Boston; 1935, bequest of Frank Brewer Bemis to the MFA. (Accession Date: November 7, 1935)