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Lower body wrapper (Pha nung; pha toi; pha chong kaben)

Indian (made for the Royal Siamese Court)
Princely states under British rule
mid-19th century
Object Place: Thailand (Siam)

Medium/Technique Silk, gold metallic paper wrapped thread; satin weave ground, discontinuous supplementary weft
Dimensions 297 x 103 cm (116 15/16 x 40 9/16 in.)
Credit Line Gift of Mrs. Eldon R. James
Accession Number54.804
NOT ON VIEW
ClassificationsCostumes

DescriptionDark red satin ground covered with an all over design of rosettes and curling leaves created by supplementary weft gold metallic paper wrapped threads; deep triple border on two short ends of stylized plant and tree forms, narrower triple border of two long sides of narrow bands both vertical and horizontal separating borders, supplementary weft motifs in gold metallic and dark green threads.

This textile was woven in India for the Royal Siamese Court. It is a rectangular piece of cloth that was wrapped around the waist, passed between the legs and tucked in at the back, or front, to form a pantaloon. The pha nung was commonly worn by both men and women up until the turn of the nineteenth century.