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This decorated headdress, called gargush, was treasured as one of the most festive garments to be worn by married Jewish women in the town Sana, Yemen. It usually formed part of a young woman’s dowry. The hood itself is made of gold brocade (imported from India) and lined with cotton fabric. Its decoration consists of attached pieces of filigree jewelry made of gilt silver and gilt coins
View: Left side
Headdress
Yemen
late 19th–early 20th century
Medium/Technique
Silk cotton and metal thread, brocaded weave, with metal cord and chains, silver and gold filigree basket pendants, coins, and silver-gilt filigree plaques, with floral embroidered and painted cotton lining
Dimensions
Height: 54.6 cm (21 1/2 in.)
Credit Line
Jetskalina H. Phillips Fund
Accession Number2023.278
CollectionsJudaica
ClassificationsTextiles
This decorated headdress, called gargush, was treasured as one of the most festive garments to be worn by married Jewish women in the town Sana, Yemen. It usually formed part of a young woman’s dowry. The hood itself is made of gold brocade (imported from India) and lined with cotton fabric. Its decoration consists of attached pieces of filigree jewelry made of gilt silver and gilt coins
DescriptionThis magnificent, brocaded headdress known as a gargush, hung with gilt coins and embellished with intricate filigree plaques, was the highlight of an elaborate bridal costume and formed part of a woman’s dowry. The decoration along the front edge features a snake-shaped silver chain, braided silver threads, and above the forehead, pendants representing grains. Six elaborate filigree baskets hang from the sides, and the entire headdress highlights the exceptional artistic workmanship of Yemenite Jewish silversmiths.
ProvenanceAbout 1949/1950, probably removed from Yemen to Israel [see note]. Between about 1970 and 2017, acquired, probably in Israel or New York, by Abraham Halpern (b. 1936 – d. 2017), New York; December 15, 2022, Halpern collection sale, Sotheby’s, New York, lot 91, to the MFA. (Accession Date: April 12, 2023)
NOTE: In 1949/1950, there was a largescale migration of Jews from Yemen to Israel, and it is probable that the headdress was removed at that time.
NOTE: In 1949/1950, there was a largescale migration of Jews from Yemen to Israel, and it is probable that the headdress was removed at that time.