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Man's jacket (ompak ka mama)
Bagobo
Late 19th century to early 20th century
Object Place: Mindanao, Philippines
Medium/Technique
Abaca fiber plain weave, cotton plain weave, cotton embroidery, glass beads
Dimensions
Overall: 36.2 × 129.5 cm (14 1/4 × 51 in.)
Credit Line
Museum purchase with a bequest from Lorraine R. Balkin
Accession Number2022.2012.1
ClassificationsCostumes
This ensemble was created in Mindanao, the second largest island in the Philippines, by Bagobo women who traditionally wove abaca cloth using fiber from the stems of a cultivated species of a locally grown banana plant. Through a complex process of harvesting, spinning, dyeing, and weaving, Bagobo women have created this stiff abaca cloth in intricate warp ikat patterns for centuries. The brightly dyed cotton cloth and threads and the colorful glass beads appliqued to the surface were highly valued trade goods. The ensemble are especially fine examples of Bagobo artistry, from the finely woven ikat abaca cloth to the pieces of appliqued red, blue, and white cotton cloth overlayed with intricate patterns of embroidered red, yellow, and blue threads. Brilliant white seed beads outline the edges of the ensemble and the bag, forming geometric and vegetal patterns with yellow and light blue bead work. Rows of metallic sequins on the bag would have added a dynamic element of reflected light.
ProvenanceAbout 1970s/1980s, purchased in London by Taylor A. Dale, London and Santa Fe; early 1990s, sold by Dale to Beverly Birks, New York; 2022, consigned by Beverly Birks to Andres Moraga, Berkeley, CA; 2022, sold by Andres Moraga to the MFA. (Accession Date: December 6, 2022)