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Shawl

Attributed to: Frederic Hebert & Fils (French, 1815–1867)
French
about 1855
Object Place: France

Medium/Technique Field: 3/1 Z twill; pattern: 1/3 Z twill patterned with supplementary continuous patterning wefts tied in 3/1 Z twill, clipped; warp: silk plied with wool, resist dyed; main weft: cotton and wool, resist dyed; pattern weft: wool
Dimensions Height x width: 318.8 × 161.3 cm (125 1/2 × 63 1/2 in.)
Credit Line Gift of the American Textile History Museum—Martha Bayles Boyd Collection
Accession Number2017.1162
NOT ON VIEW
ClassificationsCostumes

DescriptionDesign consists of a tiny forked black center field framed by floral vines shaped as teardrops and outwardly curving rectangles. This pattern is in turn trimmed by a blue scallop edge enclosing small bent tip botehs on a red ground. At the center of each side is an elongated arch with a tiered feather design that fans upward. Flanking the tiered feather design are two similar arches containing three floral motifs each within its own arch. Inner vertical border contains multitudes of mihrabs; some filled with vases, others with tiered fan shapes. Outer vertical border contains a wavy pattern edged by narrow floral bands. Harlequin fringe gates white, black, orange, green, red, and blue. Made By: Hebert, Frederic (Designer, Attributed to) tiny black center, tiered feather design, "chini mahal", designed by Hebert (?),
ProvenanceJune, 1988, sold by Frank Ames, New York, NY, to Martha Bayles Boyd (b.1929-d.2010), Reston, Virginia; 2001, given by Martha Bayles Boyd, Reston, Virginia, to the American Textile History Museum, Lowell, MA (2001.157.231); 2017, gift of the American Textile History Museum to the MFA. (Accession date: June 21, 2017)