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Platinum and diamond tiara/necklace


Tiara
Probably by: Boucheron (French (1858–present))
French
about 1903

Medium/Technique Platinum, diamonds
Dimensions Height x width: 17 x 17 x 0.5 cm (6 11/16 x 6 11/16 x 3/16 in.)
Credit Line Gift of the heirs of Bettina Looram de Rothschild
Accession Number2013.1775
CollectionsEurope, Jewelry

Symbols of honor and rank, tiaras have their roots in antiquity where they were given to triumphant athletes and warriors. But in more recent history, tiaras have been associated with European courtly life. In March 1938 Alphonse and Clarice de Rothschild traveled from Vienna to London to celebrate the opening of an art exhibition. The English-born Clarice brought this spectacular diamond tiara, which can be worn alternatively as a necklace, with her on the trip. This London visit saved Clarice's tiara/necklace, and the other jewelry she was traveling with, from being seized in the Anschluss with her other jewels. Amazingly the family managed to keep, rather than sell, the jewelry during World War II, and it subsequently descended in the Austrian branch of the Rothschild family. While unmarked, the tiara was likely made by the Parisian jeweler Boucheron around 1903. The Rothchilds were important clients, and a photograph of an identical tiara exists in the firm’s archives.


DescriptionThis is a convertible necklace/tiara with nine suspended diamond elements from a swag motif composed of single rows of round diamonds which are equal in size . Each element is graduated in size (the largest being at the front) and consist of one large pear-shaped diamond surrounded by a row of very small diamonds. The necklace has a total of 570 old European and single-cut diamonds (approx. 14 carats) with two detachable pendants which can be hooked onto a hanging row of diamond earrings. Boucheron archives has a corresponding documenting this design.
Marks unmarked
ProvenanceBy 1938, Clarice de Rothschild (b. 1894 – d. 1967), Vienna and New York [see note 1]; by descent to her daughter, Bettina Looram de Rothschild (b. 1924 - d. 2012); about 1990/1992, given by Bettina Looram de Rothschild to members of her family; 2013, gift of the heirs of Bettina Looram de Rothschild to the MFA. (Accession Date: December 18, 2013)

NOTES:
[1] With the Anschluss, or annexation of Austria to Nazi Germany in March, 1938, the possessions of Alphonse and Clarice de Rothschild of Vienna were seized almost immediately by Nazi forces. However, at the time the couple was traveling in London, where Clarice de Rothschild had taken her jewelry. The jewelry was never confiscated, and remained in her possession.