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Necklace
Natural pearl and diamond necklace
Necklace
European
c. 1880
Medium/Technique
Silver, gold, natural pearls (Pinctada maxima), and diamonds
Dimensions
Overall: 18.5 x 15 x 1.2 cm (7 5/16 x 5 7/8 x 1/2 in.)
Credit Line
Gift of the heirs of Bettina Looram de Rothschild
Accession Number2013.1774.1
ClassificationsJewelry / Adornment – Necklaces and neck bands
In 1938 this necklace belonged to Baroness Clarice de Rothschild, a member of the Vienna branch of the important banking family. At the time of the Anschluss, Nazi Germany's annexation of Austria, Rothschild and her husband were in London. She had this necklace with her, and as a result, it wasn’t confiscated by the Nazis. A quintessential example of the refined Rothschild taste, it is, surprisingly, not signed by a maker or retailer. It could take a lifetime, or more, to amass a group of natural pearls like these, perfectly matched for color, shape, and size. The necklace represents the height of late 19th-century fashion. Each pearl is removable, so the ornament can alternately be worn as an all-diamond necklace. The swag-style design is an example of the “garland” style and the diamonds are set in “silver topped gold.” In the days before jewelers used platinum, this achieved a white on white look, which darkened over time, and maximized the necklace’s glittering effect in candlelight.
DescriptionSilver-topped gold necklace with ten natural pearl drops each capped with small rose-cut diamonds. Two additional diamonds links (each 2 3/4"). Necklace contains 289 old European and single-cut diamonds weighing approximately 30 carats. They are arranged in a swag motif with the tear-dropped shaped pearls hanging as pendants. The removable pearls allow the necklace to be worn as an all diamond necklace. Fitted leather and velvet case.
Marks
unmarked
ProvenanceBy 1938, Clarice de Rothschild (b. 1894 – d. 1967), Vienna and New York [see note 1]; by descent to her daughter, Bettina Looram de Rothschild (b. 1924 - d. 2012); about 1990/1992, given by Bettina Looram de Rothschild to members of her family; 2013, gift of the heirs of Bettina Looram de Rothschild to the MFA. (Accession Date: December 18, 2013)
NOTES:
[1] With the Anschluss, or annexation of Austria to Nazi Germany in March, 1938, the possessions of Alphonse and Clarice de Rothschild of Vienna were seized almost immediately by Nazi forces. However, at the time the couple was traveling in London, where Clarice de Rothschild had taken her jewelry. The jewelry was never confiscated, and remained in her possession.
NOTES:
[1] With the Anschluss, or annexation of Austria to Nazi Germany in March, 1938, the possessions of Alphonse and Clarice de Rothschild of Vienna were seized almost immediately by Nazi forces. However, at the time the couple was traveling in London, where Clarice de Rothschild had taken her jewelry. The jewelry was never confiscated, and remained in her possession.