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One of Elsa Peretti’s earliest designs, this slender curve of silver that wraps halfway around the neck and ends in a flat ivory talon is the original prototype design for her Claw necklace. Peretti’s fascination with animal anatomy, particularly claws, is evident in several of her designs, including an early hair comb resembling a bear claw (1970), the Parrot ring (1971), and later her Scorpion brooch (2000s), which consists of long pincers clenching a bezel-set diamond. While interviewing the designer in 1978, Gaylen Moore of The New York Times noted a flowerpot in Peretti’s New York apartment that held two lobster claws. He described the odd display, explaining that “You pick them up, hold them in your hand: smooth thickness sliding to knotty joints and jagged, sharp pincers.” This claw necklace was worn by Peretti in the October 15, 1970 issue of Vogue magazine.
Claw necklace
Designed by: Elsa Peretti (Italian, 1940 – 2021)
Retailed by: Tiffany & Co. (American, active 1837 - present)
Retailed by: Tiffany & Co. (American, active 1837 - present)
American
late 1970s
Medium/Technique
Silver, ivory
Dimensions
Length: 330.2 mm (13 in.)
Credit Line
Museum purchase with funds donated anonymously
Accession Number2012.850
CollectionsEurope, Jewelry, Contemporary Art, Americas
ClassificationsJewelry / Adornment – Necklaces and neck bands
One of Elsa Peretti’s earliest designs, this slender curve of silver that wraps halfway around the neck and ends in a flat ivory talon is the original prototype design for her Claw necklace. Peretti’s fascination with animal anatomy, particularly claws, is evident in several of her designs, including an early hair comb resembling a bear claw (1970), the Parrot ring (1971), and later her Scorpion brooch (2000s), which consists of long pincers clenching a bezel-set diamond. While interviewing the designer in 1978, Gaylen Moore of The New York Times noted a flowerpot in Peretti’s New York apartment that held two lobster claws. He described the odd display, explaining that “You pick them up, hold them in your hand: smooth thickness sliding to knotty joints and jagged, sharp pincers.” This claw necklace was worn by Peretti in the October 15, 1970 issue of Vogue magazine.
DescriptionThe ornament is in the form of a 2/3 silver torque with one side terminating in a carved, ivory claw. Made in Spain for Tiffany & Co.
Marks
PERETTI TIFFANY & C0 / STERLING SPAIN
InscriptionsPERETTI TIFFANY 20 STERLING SPAIN
ProvenanceJanuary 2012, purchased in New York State by Katy Kane, New Hope, PA; 2012, sold by Katy Kane to the MFA. (Accession date: October 24, 2012)
Copyright© Nando and Elsa Peretti Foundation