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A wave of nationalism swept through Europe in the 19th century. In both long-established and newly independent countries, jewelers sought to evoke the glorious past in ornaments that expressed artistic, as well as political, meanings. Made during the reign of Britain’s Queen Victoria (1819–1901), this cameo necklace portrays Queen Elizabeth I (1533–1603), a reference to contemporary associations between these two powerful female monarchs. This necklace was designed by Mrs. Newman (Charlotte Newman), one of the earliest women to work as an independent jeweler in London. Celebrated lapidary artist Georges Bissinger carved the cameo pendant. The design for the mount that frames the cameo is purportedly based on a clasp of a bracelet that was once owned by Elizabeth I. However, it bears an uncanny resemblance to the clasp of a bracelet worn by Madame de Pompadour in a 1750 portrait by François Boucher that is now at Harvard Art Museums, which features a similarly framed cameo of Louis XV by the gemcarver Jacques Guay.
Necklace with a cameo of Elizabeth I
Designed by: Charlotte Newman, known as Mrs. Newman (English, 1840–1927)
Carved by: Georges Bissinger (Germany, active in Paris, second half of the 19th century)
Carved by: Georges Bissinger (Germany, active in Paris, second half of the 19th century)
English
about 1890
Medium/Technique
Gold, silver, diamond, emerald, pearl, agate, glass
Dimensions
Height x width x depth x length: 3.8 x 3.1 x 1 x 36.5 cm (1 1/2 x 1 1/4 x 3/8 x 14 3/8 in.)
Credit Line
Museum purchase with funds donated by Susan B. Kaplan
Accession Number2011.7
ClassificationsJewelry / Adornment – Necklaces and neck bands
A wave of nationalism swept through Europe in the 19th century. In both long-established and newly independent countries, jewelers sought to evoke the glorious past in ornaments that expressed artistic, as well as political, meanings. Made during the reign of Britain’s Queen Victoria (1819–1901), this cameo necklace portrays Queen Elizabeth I (1533–1603), a reference to contemporary associations between these two powerful female monarchs. This necklace was designed by Mrs. Newman (Charlotte Newman), one of the earliest women to work as an independent jeweler in London. Celebrated lapidary artist Georges Bissinger carved the cameo pendant. The design for the mount that frames the cameo is purportedly based on a clasp of a bracelet that was once owned by Elizabeth I. However, it bears an uncanny resemblance to the clasp of a bracelet worn by Madame de Pompadour in a 1750 portrait by François Boucher that is now at Harvard Art Museums, which features a similarly framed cameo of Louis XV by the gemcarver Jacques Guay.
DescriptionThe pendant brooch hangs on a choker-length chain composed of bezel-set pearls, graduated in size, which alternate with silver-on-gold closed-prong settings of old mine-cut diamonds. These elements are connected by gold links. The necklace terminates in a gold rectangular box clasp; two rows of five tiny rose-cut diamonds are set on the top surface. The bail which attaches the pendant to the chain consists of three silver-on-gold prong-set rose-cut diamonds arranged vertically. The top diamond is larger than the two below. On the reverse is a hook which permits the pendant to detach from the chain allowing it to be worn on a longer chain.
The pendant consists of a centrally set oval agate, carved by George Bissinger with a profile image of Elizabeth I. The mount of the cameo, designed by Mrs. Philip (Charlotte) Newman, is composed of a laurel wreath border of leaf-carved emeralds each separated by rows of rose-cut diamonds, except at the top and bottom where the emeralds are divided by double rows.
The pendant consists of a centrally set oval agate, carved by George Bissinger with a profile image of Elizabeth I. The mount of the cameo, designed by Mrs. Philip (Charlotte) Newman, is composed of a laurel wreath border of leaf-carved emeralds each separated by rows of rose-cut diamonds, except at the top and bottom where the emeralds are divided by double rows.
Marks
Mrs. N in a rectangle on underside of clasp. "G. Bissinger" is scratched on the reverse side of the cameo.
ProvenanceBy 1984, acquired from a private collector by Wartski, Ltd., London; 2011, sold by Wartski to the MFA. (Accession Date: January 26, 2011)