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Japanesque brooch

Lacloche Frères (French, founded in 1892)
French
about 1925
Object Place: France

Medium/Technique Platinum, gold, enamel, diamond, ruby, onyx
Dimensions Height x width x depth: 3.6 x 5.2 x 0.6 cm (1 7/16 x 2 1/16 x 1/4 in.)
Credit Line William Francis Warden Fund
Accession Number2009.2533
CollectionsEurope, Jewelry
ClassificationsJewelry / AdornmentBrooches



The geometric shape, Japanese-inspired subject, and extraordinary craftsmanship make this brooch a quintessential Art Deco jewel. The rectangular plaque features buff-top ruby blossoms with delicate onyx branches and a black enamel frame. Pinned to the low-slung waistline of a 1920’s simple black dress, it would have made an exquisite belt-brooch. But, it’s unlikely it was ever worn that way. This brooch was in the private collection of Mary of Teck, wife of the British king George V. Born in 1867, she favored earlier styles of clothing and jewelry. A year before her death, Mary of Teck gave the brooch to the actress Angela Dowding when she married the queen’s cousin Gerald Laselles. A note, handwritten on stationery from Queen Mary’s home, Marlborough House, accompanies the piece and reads: “For Angela from Mary R, 1952.”










DescriptionThe brooch is designed as a pave-set, diamond rectangular plaque with onyx branches and buff-top ruby blossoms with a black enamel border. The diamonds are old, European cuts (est. carats 11.25) and the horizontal pin is removable. The brooch has its original Lacloche box. There is also a card printed "Marlborough House S.W.1 and a handwritten note "For Angela from Mary R, 1952." The date suggests that it was a wedding gift from Queen Mary to Angela Lascelles on her marriage to Hon. Gerald Lascelles, second son of Princess Mary and a grandson of George V.
Signed The brooch has a fitted, pink leather case signed Lacloche Freres, no. 66252.
Marks Lacloche Freres (in block letters along back right side). French assay marks for platinum (dog's head) and gold (eagle's head) on lower right gallery and armature. Engraved C6252 (or CG252) and scratch marks 23355/?symbols (?cost code) on underside.
Provenance1952, gift of Queen Mary of England (b. 1867 - d. 1953) to Angela Lascelles (b. 1919 - d. 2007), London and Fort Belvedere, Surrey [see note 1]; December 12, 2007, consigned from the collection of Angela Lascelles, Christie's, London, lot 75, sold to Hancocks and Co., Ltd., London; 2009, sold by Hancocks and Co. to the MFA. (Accession Date: June 17, 2009)

NOTES: [1] The case for the brooch contains a card inscribed "For Angela from Mary R., 1952." It was very probably a gift on the occasion of her wedding to Hon. Gerald Lascelles, a first cousin of the Queen.