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Mary Todd Lincoln earrings


Pair of earrings
Worn by: Mary Todd Lincoln (American, 1818–1882)
American
about 1860

Medium/Technique Gold, enamel, and diamond
Dimensions Depth x diameter: 2.38 x 2.06 cm (15/16 x 13/16 in.)
Credit Line Museum purchase with funds donated by Susan B. Kaplan and by exchange from a Bequest of Maxim Karolik, The Elizabeth Day McCormick Collection, Gift of Mrs. William Reynolds, Gift of Mrs. Alfred Redfield, Gift of Mrs. Samuel Cabot, Gift of Mrs. Oric Bates, Gift of Miss Eleanor Randall, Gift of Miss Eleanor E. Barry, Gift of Mrs. Lorenz E. Ernst, Gift of Miss Penelope B. Noyes from the Estate of Mrs. Winthrop H. Wade, Gift of Mrs. Charles H. Pease, Gift from the Estate of Mary Babcock Alward, Gift of Mrs. George E. Bates, Gift of Miss Helen R. Humpage in memory of William and Winifred Humpage, and Gift in memory of Mary Wade White from her children
Accession Number2008.314.1-2
NOT ON VIEW
CollectionsJewelry, Americas

This suite once belonged to Mary Todd Lincoln, wife of President Abraham Lincoln. Mrs. Lincoln probably purchased these jewels at Galt and Brothers in Washington, D.C. in 1864, two years after the death of her beloved son Willie. The decoration of black tracery enamel made the set appropriate to wear for the late stages of mourning. Following the president’s assassination, Mrs. Lincoln fell into dire financial circumstances and was forced to sell many of her possessions. An avid shopper with an eye for fashion and quality, Mrs. Lincoln expected the sale of her clothes and jewelry to offset her debts, estimated at $6,000. The sale took place at Brady and Company in New York City and drew much presale publicity, most of it negative. One West Virginia newspaper article described the sale as "low . . . sordid . . . disgraceful." As a result, the items sold for less than expected. An article describing many of the sale objects appeared in Frank Lesley’s Illustrated Newspaper on October 26, 1867. It presented this suite with a sale price of $350, which would have been its price when new. Its final selling price was not published.


DescriptionThe earrings (and matching brooch - 2008.313) are quatrefoil in shape. Each has a central diamond with a diamond surround. Eight smaller diamonds form a second tier of stones. The stones are all mine-cut and are probably original to the suite. The color range is J-K with VS-VS1 clarity. there are some losses to the tracery enamel. The suite was featured in Frank Lesley's Illustrated Newspaper (Oct. 26, 1867). It was part of a large group of Mrs. Lincoln's clothes, jewelry, and furnishings that were offered for sale through Brady & Company of New York City. Apparently, Mrs. Lincoln fell into dire financial circumstances after the assassination of her husband, Abraham Lincoln. The sale price was listed as $350.00
Marks unmarked
Provenance1867, purchased by James Denton Hancock of Ohio for his wife Mary Hitchcock Hancock (according to Mary Todd Lincoln scholar Donna McCreary) at a sale of Mrs. Lincoln's clothes and jewels which took place at Brady & Co, 609 Broadway, NYC; descended in the family of Robert Allen, Jr.; purchased at Frank Kaminski auction on 4/26/08;