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Fragment of a lappet from a mitre

probably German
12th–13th century
Object Place: Germany

Medium/Technique Linen, brocaded tablet woven
Dimensions Height x width: 40 x 8 cm (15 3/4 x 3 1/8 in.)
Credit Line John Wheelock Eliot Fund
Accession Number50.7
NOT ON VIEW
ClassificationsCostumes

DescriptionFragment of a lappet for a mitre. Narrow band, flaring slightly at one end; selvedges partially preserved. Brick-red warps and wefts form a ground resembling chain stitch. Gold-wrapped linen wefts define stylized patterns suggesting rows of alternating pyramids and trees, one large and four small eight-pointed stars and part of a bird. Gold almost entirely worn off; some linen wefts broken loose; frayed edges. Technique used for decoration of early medieval church vestments.
Provenance1946, Ugo Bardini (b. 1892 - d. 1965), Florence [see note 1]; March, 1946, sold by Bardini to Adolph Loewi, Los Angeles; November 6, 1946, sold by Loewi to Joseph Brummer (b. 1883 - d. 1947) for the Brummer Gallery, New York (stock no. N6690); May 13, 1949, posthumous Brummer sale, Parke-Bernet Galleries, New York, lot 530, probably sold to Di Segni (Ars Antiqua), New York; October, 1949, sold by Di Segni to Adolph Loewi, Los Angeles [see note 2]; 1950, sold by Loewi to the MFA for $275. (Accession Date: January 12, 1950)

NOTES:
[1] This is one of two lappets that were affixed to a mitre from Lucca, Italy. The mitre was sold by Bardini to Loewi in 1946, and remained intact until 1949, when the lappets were removed. [2] Di Segni sold the two lappets to Adolph Loewi, who sold one of them to the MFA.