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Maltese-cross brooch
Jewelry was an essential element of the Chanel look. The fashion designer’s deceptively simple garments offered the perfect canvas for bold jewelry. Inspired by the colorful mosaics of Empress Theodora that she saw at the Basilica San Vitali in Ravenna, Italy, Chanel began working with Gripoix to create Byzantine-style jewels, using pâte-de-verre enameling. Like camelia flowers, pearls, quilted handbags, and two-toned shoes, the Maltese cross became part of the Chanel lexicon. This brooch was made in the years between Gabrielle Chanel’s death in 1971 and the appointment of Karl Lagerfeld as creative director in 1983. During those years, the house borrowed from the enduring style Chanel cultivated during her decades-long career in fashion.
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Maltese Cross brooch
Maltese-cross brooch
French
1970s
Object Place: Paris, France
Medium/Technique
Gilded metal, glass
Dimensions
Height x width x depth: 7.1 x 7.1 x 1.8 cm (2 13/16 x 2 13/16 x 11/16 in.)
Credit Line
Museum purchase with funds donated by Penny Vinik
Accession Number2008.34
CollectionsEurope, Jewelry, Contemporary Art
ClassificationsJewelry / Adornment – Brooches
Jewelry was an essential element of the Chanel look. The fashion designer’s deceptively simple garments offered the perfect canvas for bold jewelry. Inspired by the colorful mosaics of Empress Theodora that she saw at the Basilica San Vitali in Ravenna, Italy, Chanel began working with Gripoix to create Byzantine-style jewels, using pâte-de-verre enameling. Like camelia flowers, pearls, quilted handbags, and two-toned shoes, the Maltese cross became part of the Chanel lexicon. This brooch was made in the years between Gabrielle Chanel’s death in 1971 and the appointment of Karl Lagerfeld as creative director in 1983. During those years, the house borrowed from the enduring style Chanel cultivated during her decades-long career in fashion.
DescriptionByzantine style cross with large red and green glass stones. Large pearl in the center and between each arm of the cross. Reverse is gold with arabesques, pine cones (?) and floral motifs. Maker's mark on oval tag on reverse: "© Chanel ®/2 [Chanel logo-interlocking C's] 3/Made in France."
Marks
© Chanel ®/2 [Chanel logo-interlocking C's] 3/Made in France (applied oval tag at center back)
ProvenancePurchased from the dealer Eric Yang (The Lush Life Antiques, Dallas, TX). (Accession Date: February 27, 2008)