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Art Nouveau jewelry is often described as the most tantalizing, exotic, and technically sophisticated adornments ever created. The elegant simplicity of this brooch by Art Nouveau proponent and jeweler Paul Liénard understates its fine workmanship. The brooch features a central mabe pearl flanked by two clusters of cast-gold seaweed fronds with a remarkable undulating quality. The seaweed’s stems form elegant ellipses joined to plant-shaped prongs that hold the luminous pearl in place. Similar to other Art Nouveau ornaments, the decoration on the underside of this jewel reiterates the design elements on the front. Liénard created several ornaments using the seaweed motif; he also used it for his border design for the early 20th-century jewelry magazine, La Revue de la Bijouterie, Joaillerie, Orfèvrerie.
Seaweed brooch
Paul Lienard (French, 1849 - 1900)
French
about 1908
Medium/Technique
Gold, mabe pearl
Dimensions
Height x width x depth: 5.4 x 11 x 1 cm (2 1/8 x 4 5/16 x 3/8 in.)
Credit Line
Gift of Joe and Ruth Sataloff in honor of Susan B. Kaplan
Accession Number2007.892
ClassificationsJewelry / Adornment – Brooches
Art Nouveau jewelry is often described as the most tantalizing, exotic, and technically sophisticated adornments ever created. The elegant simplicity of this brooch by Art Nouveau proponent and jeweler Paul Liénard understates its fine workmanship. The brooch features a central mabe pearl flanked by two clusters of cast-gold seaweed fronds with a remarkable undulating quality. The seaweed’s stems form elegant ellipses joined to plant-shaped prongs that hold the luminous pearl in place. Similar to other Art Nouveau ornaments, the decoration on the underside of this jewel reiterates the design elements on the front. Liénard created several ornaments using the seaweed motif; he also used it for his border design for the early 20th-century jewelry magazine, La Revue de la Bijouterie, Joaillerie, Orfèvrerie.
Marks
Two impressed diamonds with the initials P and L separated by a leaf on reverse at the tips of the marquis-shaped element; eagles' heads on pin stem and next to one of the maker's marks
ProvenancePurchased by the donors in the 1980s; Gift of Dr. and Mrs. Joseph Sataloff to the MFA (Accession Date: December 12, 2007)