Mary Lee Hu creates sculptural gold jewelry using textile weaving techniques. Hu pioneered the application of textile techniques such as crocheting, weaving, and twining to metalwork. While examining a Native American Northwest Coast cedar bark basket, Hu found a surface texture she liked and developed a wire wrapping technique to replicate the texture. She has been using this technique, known as “double twining,” almost exclusively since 1976. One of her largest ornaments, this complex gold necklace uses twining to create fluid, dynamic lines and subtle patterns. The negative space in its composition integrates the wearer’s skin into its aesthetic. Hu’s jewelry responds to the contours of the body and is sensitive to issues of scale and weight. This choker wraps fully around the neck and rests gently on the shoulders when worn, creating a visual rhythm.

---