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The textile manufacturer Frederick C. Fletcher commissioned this remarkable brooch from Black, Starr & Frost as a patriotic symbol in the midst of World War I. Black, Starr & Frost was one of the nation's oldest jewelry houses, having descended from the firm of Frederick Marquand established in New York in 1823. While the name of the firm changed several times in the 19th century with changes in partnership, it remained one of the largest and most successful jewelry and silver retailers. It was one of the few American firms to display its work at the 1851 London Crystal Palace Exhibition. When its landmark store opened in 1860 at Broadway and Prince Streets, the remarkable edifice boasted fireproof construction, enormous plate glass windows, a steam driven elevator, and the first modern vault system in the country. Fletcher purchased the flag brooch with the intention of donating it to a charity auction, to raise money for the war effort. But, by the time the brooch was finished, the war was over; instead it became a treasured family heirloom.
Flag brooch
For: Black, Starr and Frost (American, 1876–1929)
Possibly by: Oscar Heyman Bros. (American, founded in 1912)
Possibly by: Oscar Heyman Bros. (American, founded in 1912)
American
1917
Object Place: New York, New York
Medium/Technique
Platinum, diamonds, rubies, and sapphires
Dimensions
Overall: 6.4 x 4.4 x 0.6 cm (2 1/2 x 1 3/4 x 1/4 in.)
Credit Line
Gift of Selina F. Little in memory of Nina Fletcher Little
Accession Number2004.2080
NOT ON VIEW
ClassificationsJewelry / Adornment
The textile manufacturer Frederick C. Fletcher commissioned this remarkable brooch from Black, Starr & Frost as a patriotic symbol in the midst of World War I. Black, Starr & Frost was one of the nation's oldest jewelry houses, having descended from the firm of Frederick Marquand established in New York in 1823. While the name of the firm changed several times in the 19th century with changes in partnership, it remained one of the largest and most successful jewelry and silver retailers. It was one of the few American firms to display its work at the 1851 London Crystal Palace Exhibition. When its landmark store opened in 1860 at Broadway and Prince Streets, the remarkable edifice boasted fireproof construction, enormous plate glass windows, a steam driven elevator, and the first modern vault system in the country. Fletcher purchased the flag brooch with the intention of donating it to a charity auction, to raise money for the war effort. But, by the time the brooch was finished, the war was over; instead it became a treasured family heirloom.
DescriptionThe flag pole consists of 13 square cut, antique diamonds and topped with an Old European cut diamond of approximately 0.45 carats. The flag's stripes are composed of 125 French cut rubies of medium red color and 125 square, antique cut diamonds of good clarity and color. The 13 stars are studded with diamonds and set on a field of 36 square cut, medium blue sapphires. The total stone weight is approximately 9.45 carats of diamonds, 7.00 carats of rubies and 4.00 carats of sapphires. The brooch is stamped #57370. It is accompanied by a leather and velvet lined box, embossed "Black, Starr & Frost", but the piece is unsigned. Condition is excellent.
Marks
Stamped "57370"
ProvenancePurchased by Frederick C. Fletcher (1874-1958); to his daughter Nina Fletcher Little, to her daughter Selina F. Little.