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Pleated trousers (hakama) for two-piece suit (hitatare)

Japanese
Edo Period
19th century
Object Place: Japan

Medium/Technique Silk plain-weave variation with warp floats; plaited, ikat-dyed silk cords
Dimensions 94.0 x 71.8 cm (37 x 28 1/4 in.)
Credit Line Gift of Mrs. Leverett Bradley
Accession NumberRES.23.212b
NOT ON VIEW
ClassificationsCostumes

DescriptionTrousers for two-piece suit (hitatare) which includes pleated trousers (hakama) in green and purple iridescent silk with four broad padded ties at the waist and open 1/4 of the way down the side seam. The double-width sleeve jacket is open in front with two silk tie cords for closure; pleated front lapels taper to the waist and would be worn tucked inside the top of the hakama; plaited, ikat-dyed, blue and white silk cords are laced through the outer edges of the sleeves.

The hitatare is a formal suit worn by men of the warrior class. Plaited cords (kikutoji) are applied to the shoulder seams and trouser seams to prevent ripping during movement.
ProvenanceGift of Mrs. Leverett Bradley to the MFA