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Spool earring
Italic, Etruscan
Late Archaic or Classical Period
early 5th century B.C.
Medium/Technique
Gold
Dimensions
Overall: 1.2 cm (1/2 in.)
Overall (with 03.765): 4.31 gm (0.01 lb.)
Overall (with 03.765): 4.31 gm (0.01 lb.)
Credit Line
Bartlett Collection—Museum purchase with funds from the Francis Bartlett Donation of 1900
Accession Number03.766
NOT ON VIEW
CollectionsJewelry, Ancient Greece and Rome
ClassificationsJewelry / Adornment – Earrings, flares, plugs, studs
During the seventh century B.C., the number of personal adornments produced for and worn by Etruscan women increased dramatically. This proliferation reflected the growing wealth of elites, whose tastes and desire for luxury products were stimulated by sumptuous wares imported from Greece, Egypt, and the Near East. Additionally, an influx of goldsmiths from the Levant brought with it advanced metalsmithing technologies, including granulation and filigree--means of surface decoration in which either tiny metal granules or fine wire are fused to a metal surface. Etruscan goldsmiths developed these labor-intensive methods to a high degree, sometimes creating entire figural scenes or complex, geometric patterns out of delicate balls and wires.
Among the jewelry forms popular in Etruria were fibulae, bracelets, and earrings. The baule type of earring, fashionable during the sixth century B.C., consists of a strip of thin gold sheet bent into a cylindrical form with a wire for attachment to the ear. Each of the examples seen here has a curved body divided into three rows of squares, separated by strips of gold arranged in a raised-ribbon pattern. The design in the squares alternates between hollow hemispheres soldered onto the gold substrate and circular clusters of dense granulation with a thin gold-strip border. A pyramid-shaped top, decorated with fine gold wires, granulated gold balls, and a stylized palmette, is attached to the body of each earring by a tube-and-pin hinge that conceals the mechanizm of the flat ear wire. Such earrings are among the finest of Etruscan innovations.
Among the jewelry forms popular in Etruria were fibulae, bracelets, and earrings. The baule type of earring, fashionable during the sixth century B.C., consists of a strip of thin gold sheet bent into a cylindrical form with a wire for attachment to the ear. Each of the examples seen here has a curved body divided into three rows of squares, separated by strips of gold arranged in a raised-ribbon pattern. The design in the squares alternates between hollow hemispheres soldered onto the gold substrate and circular clusters of dense granulation with a thin gold-strip border. A pyramid-shaped top, decorated with fine gold wires, granulated gold balls, and a stylized palmette, is attached to the body of each earring by a tube-and-pin hinge that conceals the mechanizm of the flat ear wire. Such earrings are among the finest of Etruscan innovations.
Catalogue Raisonné
Highlights: Classical Art (MFA), p. 142.
Description“A baule” or spool earrings consist of a band of sheet metal rounded at one end and rolled into a cylinder. A hook at one end of the earring either passed through the earlobe or a suspension hoop in the ear.
The upper zone of decoration, which covered the earlobe, is shaped like a pediment with a palmette drawn in beaded wire and terminating in spirals. Granules of many different sizes fill in space at the base of the palmette. A thin strip of sheet gold forms an undulating ribbon-like border between the two zones.
The main decorative zone is divided into eighteen squares, all separated by a ribbon border. The squares alternate between a hemisphere of plain sheet gold and one covered with granules, creating a pattern of matte/textured and polished/smooth surfaces. The sheet gold hemispheres are marked with a pyramid of three granules that form a central bead.
An embellished disk closes one end of the spool. The disk is decorated with a border of flat open circles (beaded filigree wire); beaded filigree is used to embellish the open area in the center.
The earring forms a pair with 03.765.
The upper zone of decoration, which covered the earlobe, is shaped like a pediment with a palmette drawn in beaded wire and terminating in spirals. Granules of many different sizes fill in space at the base of the palmette. A thin strip of sheet gold forms an undulating ribbon-like border between the two zones.
The main decorative zone is divided into eighteen squares, all separated by a ribbon border. The squares alternate between a hemisphere of plain sheet gold and one covered with granules, creating a pattern of matte/textured and polished/smooth surfaces. The sheet gold hemispheres are marked with a pyramid of three granules that form a central bead.
An embellished disk closes one end of the spool. The disk is decorated with a border of flat open circles (beaded filigree wire); beaded filigree is used to embellish the open area in the center.
The earring forms a pair with 03.765.
ProvenanceBy date unknown: with Edward Perry Warren (according to Warren's records: Bought in Rome. [with 03.765]); March 24, 1903: purchased by MFA from Edward Perry Warren