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Hath‑phal hand ornament


Ornament for back of hand (hath-phal)
Indian
19th century
Object Place: Rajasthan, Northern India

Medium/Technique Gold, ruby, emerald, white sapphire, glass (replacement stone)
Dimensions Overall: 15.5 x 11 x 0.7 cm (6 1/8 x 4 5/16 x 1/4 in.)
Credit Line Denman Waldo Ross Collection
Accession Number19.326
CollectionsJewelry, Asia
ClassificationsJewelry / Adornment

Jewelry is an important part of the Indian wedding trousseau. In Rajasthan, ornaments like this are called hath-phal, which means flower for the hand, one of several elaborate adornments traditionally worn by women. This bracelet and two rings (mudri) are connected with ruby and emerald florets. Similar ornaments, one for each hand, might have accompanied red-orange henna on the back of the wearer’s hand and palm. The gems here are set in the traditional kundan style, with metallic foil placed in the mount behind the gems to enhance the colors. The reverse of the ornament is enameled with white, red, and green vines, leaves, and blossoms.