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This highly polished necklace is a grand example of late 19th-century mourning jewelry. Victorian etiquette and rules of mourning dictated what to wear after the death of a loved one. Coinciding with the American Civil War, many women wore mourning clothing and jewelry during the second half of the 19th century. The length of mourning varied depending on your relationship to the departed—Queen Victoria, whose beloved husband Prince Albert died in 1861, famously remained in mourning for forty years. More typically, the requirements lasted about a year or less. Made from fossilized wood, “jet” jewelry was deemed appropriate throughout the stages of mourning and became a popular accessory. Whitby, England emerged as a center for the mining of jet and the production of jewelry. Between 1808 and 1870, the number of workshops in the area increased from one to 200.
Necklace
American or European
Late 19th or 20th century
Object Place: American or European
Medium/Technique
Jet, metal
Dimensions
9.6 x 48.5 x 2.2 cm (3 3/4 x 19 1/8 x 7/8 in.)
Credit Line
Bequest of Maxim Karolik
Accession Number64.653
CollectionsEurope, Jewelry, Contemporary Art, Americas
ClassificationsJewelry / Adornment – Necklaces and neck bands
This highly polished necklace is a grand example of late 19th-century mourning jewelry. Victorian etiquette and rules of mourning dictated what to wear after the death of a loved one. Coinciding with the American Civil War, many women wore mourning clothing and jewelry during the second half of the 19th century. The length of mourning varied depending on your relationship to the departed—Queen Victoria, whose beloved husband Prince Albert died in 1861, famously remained in mourning for forty years. More typically, the requirements lasted about a year or less. Made from fossilized wood, “jet” jewelry was deemed appropriate throughout the stages of mourning and became a popular accessory. Whitby, England emerged as a center for the mining of jet and the production of jewelry. Between 1808 and 1870, the number of workshops in the area increased from one to 200.
DescriptionTrue jet, floral bell motifs hang from a graduated link chain. Largest link in the center front. Slender drops hang from the center of each floral motif. One drop missing.